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Gatrile’s Restaurant and Hennessy Cognac take pleasure in presenting to
you the release of the Havana Humidor. We are now offering a facility for the optimum
storage of cigars (70% humidity at 20ºC).
BY DAVID BULLARD
Wine September 1998
Despite desperate attempts to persuade people that the Johannesburg city centre was just going through a bad phase and would shortly be upgraded, the city fathers haven't managed to stop the flow of businesses to the northern suburbs. These days, it seems the only people still left in the centre of Johannesburg are either those who cannot afford to move north or those who have built such vainglorious corporate headquarters that they are forced to remain prisoners in the city of grime.
Having no doubt seen the writing on the wall, Gatrile’s restaurant was one of the first to lead the exodus. Originally housed in the quirky Norwegian Church Had in Joubert Park, 'Gatrile Son and Co' was established by Johannesburg diamond merchant Gatrile Lewis, his son and a partner in 1975. The restaurant's formula was simple: hearty meals with plenty of traditional food like stews and pies. Ken Forrester joined as
manager
in 1981 and became a partner in the business the following year. Gatrile's had a strong
following when it was in Joubert Park and the restaurant enjoyed a well deserved
reputation for good food and fine service under Forrester. As the city centre became
increasingly dangerous, even the lure of a good meal couldn't persuade northern
suburbanites to leave their limos on the streets of Johannesburg so the restaurant did the
only logical thing... it moved north.Tucked behind the entrance to the IDC in Sandown,
Gatrile’s hone for the past ten years has been a stylish face-brick and wood building. originally a private dwelling, the house was converted to restaurant as Sandton developed into the business area has become today. Gatrile’s is a favorite northern, suburbs haunt for merchant bankers and the tables are sufficiently well spaced to make eavesdropping difficult. When Ken Forrester decided to move to the Cape, his partner Michel Morand became manager. With typical Gallic fastidiousness. Morand has continued to build on the reputation of Gatrile’s by refusing to compromise on standards. The food Is consistently good, particularly the duck and cherry pie (R58.70) and the traditional Eisbein (R52.50). The restaurant has the sort of cellar one ,would like to be trapped in overnight. Patrons can walk in and admire the collection of over 7000 bottles of wine before ordering from a very comprehensive winelist, which includes some of the Cape's best vintages as well as a fine choice of Bordeaux. Burgundy and New World wines.
Michel Morand is a recent convert to the delights of cigar smoking and has obviously tackled the complex matter of what to offer his customers with the same gusto with which he Lovingly devises his menus and winelist. Gatrile's is not simply a restaurant that happens to have a few cigars behind the bar. It has produced a helpful cigar menu and a pamphlet telling the customer how cigars are made and what to look for. Morand will advise the first-time smoker which cigar to select from the eighteen different brands on offer. He believes that, like wine, cigars need to be properly stored and has invested in a good humidor with private drawers for his regular clients. I wound up a very good lunch at Gatrile’s, with a Ranon Allones robusto at R82 after judiciously cancelling all appointments for the rest, of the day.
IN THE HUMIDOR BY THEO RUDMANGatrile's has for many years carried a selection of cigars in a table-top humidor. But at about the same time as manager Michel Morand became a member of the Good Living Cigar Club, which now holds its quarterly dinners at Gatrile's, he installed an impressive humidor cupboard. A part from a large stock of cigars. it contains eight drawers with name plaques for regular cigar-smoking customers who have bought a bottle of Cognac in the restaurant. These special customers can used the drawers to store their cigars. bought at Gatrile's or elsewhere. When they visit their drawer is brought to their table together with their bottle of Cognac.
After dinner, guests many of whom now frequent the restaurant largely because of its wide selection of quality cigars - are offered the innovative and descriptive cigar menu that features ratings from my book and what of Cigar Aficionado magazine. Customers should always ask if there are any "specials". Which usually include one or two aged c gars. MY CHOICE FROM THE MUMIDOR:
Partagas Lusitania *****
From Cuba. Double corona - 194 mm x 19,45 mm/49 Excellent cigar for true connoisseurs. Beautifully made. Strong yet tempered. Unusual flavour Ideal when time is not a consideration.
TIP OF THE MONTH
Before lighting, cut off the sealed end with sharp scissors or guillotine cutter. It is essential to leave a small ring of the cap to keep the wrapper-leaf from unraveling. A self-sharpening double-blade guillotine cutter is an advantage for anyone willing to spend a little extra on their cigar accessories.
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