It was way back in 1975 that the derelict Norwegian Hall in Joubert Park was turned into a restaurant that soon became the talk of the town. The pièce de résistance? Pure roast duck meat simmered with black cherries topped with puff pastry and baked until golden.

Thirteen years later, when business began de-centralising, Gatrile’s relocated to new premises in Sandown. Current owner Michel Morand believes the restaurant has been successful because it always tried to maintain high standards of quality and service as well as being prepared to keep up with changing trends.

He introduced a new look menu at the beginning of the year – which features a pasta dish for the first time.

"We are introducing things that are more fashionable and which demonstrate what’s happening around the world. All the old fashioned stuff with heavy cream sauces is out. People are looking for flavour and light things. Olive oil is a lot more important today, as is keeping the proper taste of things. Carrots must taste like carrots not like potatoes," said Morand, an affable Frenchman who came to this country seven years ago.

"People’s expectations have changed completely. What we serving seven years ago is so different to what we do now. Even if the menu was the same, the preparation styles have changed completely.

Take our style of cooking oxtail. It used to be old-fashioned, now we’ve become a lot more technical. The portions have also changed. South Africans used to want huge portions. Now they’d rather have a starter, main course and dessert.

" A good restaurant, I still believe, is not a place you come just to get fed. I want people to leave here having had an experience."

Gatrile’s has taken a few pies off the menu, although it’s kept the famous duck and cherry as well as the steak and kidney and venison pies.

But now you can also have a Langoustine panzerotti on a bed of fresh tomato puree and olive oil, baked goat’s cheese served on lettuce greens or thin slices of pickled beef simmered in vegetable consommé and served with a mustard sauce.

Says Morand: "We’ll be changing our dessert menu shortly and will feature compositions as is happening around the world. So we’ll have a chocolate platter or a fruit platter comprising fresh fruit served with fruit sorbet and fruit mousse.

"We’re successful because we have the tradition but we keep up to date with what is happening and are not afraid to grow all the time. However, we’re not a trendy restaurant." He says firmly.

Attention to detail can be seen in the restaurants award winning wine list which reads like a book.

There are 8000 wines in the impressive cellar and you should ask for a tour. The restaurant also famous for it’s cigars.

Says Morand puffing on a huge Cohiba: "They’ve become very fashionable now but we’ve been selling them for five years. We have a humidor and 17 different Cuban cigars as well as personalised drawers for customers. We also have a cigar menu for those wanting to learn about cigars."

The Star Tonite by Janine Walker